Marrakech

Springtime in Marrakech is delightful. Snow still clings to the peaks of the High Atlas but in the sun-filled oasis, the scent of orange blossom fills the air. A new breath of life sweeps through the ancient palaces, the gardens and palm groves, bustling bazaars, tree-lined boulevards and along the red earth ramparts, up to 30 foot high, glowing in the African sun. Marrakech is exotic, beguiling yet just a short flight away and no jet lag.

Set between ocean, mountains and desert, this Berber city and former capital gave its name to Morocco and retains glorious mementos of the past.

From the sumptuous Medersa College to the 19th century Bahia Palace or the tombs of the Saadian dynasty, it’s a feast of Islamic architecture, rich in marble, mosaics, fountains, courtyards, stucco work as fine as lace and sculpted archways and columns.

Destroyed and pillaged, the old El Badi Palace has no such treasures but its pink crumbling walls and orange grove are among the most haunting spots in town. Storks build their nests on the towers and little disturbs the peace but the ringing of chisels and hammers on the nearby Lantern Square.

Copper and brass, lamps, mirrors, trays, tea pots, basket and leather ware, pointed slippers, embroidered gowns, Marrakech offers some of the best craft in Morocco, much of it in the cool covered alleyways of the souks. This is the place to bargain and buy, marvel at wood turners and silversmiths, watch out for donkey carts and lose your way in a dark maze of lanes strung with carpets and skeins of freshly-dyed wool. It’s colourful, overwhelming and laced with the fragrance of mint tea and a thousand spices.

After the souks, the gardens are the perfect escape, whether you choose the green oases within the walls, the Palmeraie out of town, with 100,000 palms and a few luxurious dwellings, the royal Aguedal Garden or Menara with its olive groves, pavilion and pool. The Majorelle Garden is small and often crowded but a must-see for any visitor. Created by French artist Majorelle, restored by the famous fashion designer Yves St Laurent, it claims 400 varieties of palms, 1800 of cacti and a lily pond with fabulous reflections. Bright ceramic pots compliment exotic plants and a museum displays local crafts. The garden is elegant, sophisticated, a world away from Marrakech’s most popular evening venue, the Djemaa El Fna Square.

When the sun sets over the iconic Koutoubia mosque, the whole city heads towards the central square to enjoy one of the greatest free shows on earth.

Drummers and dancers mingle with fortune tellers, snake charmers, juice sellers, henna artists, acrobats, women peddling unleavened bread and mountain folk offering silver bangles and aphrodisiacs. Soon, white-hatted chefs set up their mobile kitchens, crowds gather on the benches and great clouds of smoke rise into the night. You can feast on couscous and snails, lentil soup, lamb kebabs, meat balls and chickpeas and all sorts of mysterious delicacies sizzling in the pans. Along the avenue, the plush horse-drawn carriages patiently await the return of their hotel clients while in the deserted Koutoubia gardens, the orange trees release their sweetest fragrance to welcome the spring.

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